A Gaysian’s Guide to the John Muir Trail
One of many signs along the trail that remind hikers that wilderness permits are required for overnight hikes in the Sierra Nevada.
Getting Your Permit
If you want to hike the John Muir Trail, you’ll need an overnight backcountry permit—no way around it. Don’t try to hike the JMT without one. Rangers are out there, and they will ask to see your permit. If you get caught without one, you’re looking at a fine and getting kicked off the trail—not exactly the adventure you signed up for.
Because the JMT is so popular, getting a permit can be tough—especially if you’re trying to go southbound (SOBO) from Yosemite to Mt. Whitney, which is the direction most hikers go. According to Wikipedia, over 90% of JMT hikers choose this route. I tried for a SOBO permit multiple times through the lottery system and came up short every time. Eventually, I changed my plans and went northbound (NOBO) from Cottonwood Pass instead. It is much easier to get a permit from this trailhead and still an incredible way to experience the trail.
Dollar Lake with Fin Dome in the distance.
To obtain a NOBO permit, you will need to:
Visit www.recreation.gov and click on the Permits link
Search Inyo National Forest Wilderness Permits
SOBO hikers will need to search Yosemite National Park Wilderness Permits and enter the lottery to obtain a permit that begins at Yosemite and is eligible for a Donahue Pass exit (getting a permit without a Donahue Pass exit will prevent you from hiking out of Yosemite).
Select a starting point
Most people will select Whitney Portal as their starting point, as this is the official southern terminus of the JMT. This is a very popular trailhead, and obtaining a permit requires entering a lottery. The lottery is very competitive due to the number of hikers seeking to summit Mt. Whitney. I chose Cottonwood Pass as my starting point. It is much easier to obtain a permit for this trailhead though it will add an extra 20 miles to your journey.
Select Happy Isles trailhead as your end point
Select your start and end dates.
When selecting the end date for your permit, I recommend adding an extra week to your planned end date to account for any unforeseen circumstances that may occur on the trail. There is no “penalty” for ending the hike earlier, but you may get fined if you are on trail past the end date on your permit.
Your permit will be valid for your entire journey. You do not need to obtain separate permits for the various national forests and national parks that you will be hiking through. Your permit will also allow you to summit Mt. Whitney. Once your permit has been obtained and your hiking dates are confirmed, the fun part begins! You can start planning the logistics and details of your journey!